As Fashion Week in New York has come to a close and the spotlight now focuses on London, I thought that it would be a good idea to write a round up of some of my favorite beauty looks. Two beauty trends that really stuck out to me were: Soft and Edgy. The soft looks were simple muted faces with barely any makeup. This focus really enhanced the natural beauty of the models. In contrast, there was the mod-cat-eyes, grungier younger cousin. This consisted of a bold cat eye that was smoked out and less precise. Occasionally, these looks featured a shockingly bold lip. This variation reminded me of Marc Jacobs’ FW16/17 look.
Marchesa- Makeup Lead: Bobbi Brown
Bobbi Brown is the Queen of no makeup, makeup looks. So it is only fitting that she created a look that beautifully reflected the vibe of the collection. When I first viewed the collection it evoked that feeling of a lucid dream state that you don’t want to wake up from. The makeup really embodied this feeling with its soft complexion, rosy cheeks, and bold brows. The eye was very muted with only a simple pop of highlight solely on the inner corners.
Michael Kors-Makeup Lead: Dick Page
Vibrancy is a word that came to mind when I viewed this collection. Florals and bold neutrals really lended its way for the truly natural beauty that Dick Page created. He kept the look very simple and played up each of the models features which gave a good twist of uniqueness. This accompanied the designs really well, especially the lip colors that enhanced the natural skin tones of each model.
Rodarte-Makeup Lead: James Kaliardos
This collection gave me a Lolita vibe, from the structure of the pieces to the use of lace and leather. The makeup made sense with the collection, as it really provided a youthfulness for the models. Barely any makeup and just the slightest hint of a soft pink blush.
Oscar de la Renta-Makeup Lead: Tom Pecheux
Following Oscar’s death in 2014 I have been intrigued to see the direction of the brand. His work was so structured and perfected that his successors have extremely large shoes to fill. This season marked the start of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia as the new creative directors. Their collection was more true to Mr. de la Renta with very tailored pieces, though with the individuality of their own style. For the beauty look its main feature was the eyes. Bold brows and a well defined natural eye set the tone. Muted complexion set the perfect stage for this look. Mr. de la Renta always idolized his models beauty and I think focusing on the eyes alone really demonstrated that.
Alexander Wang-Makeup Lead: Diane Kendal
As always Alexander creates a collection for the daring and modern day woman. His style of deconstructing key pieces of a wardrobe is unlike any other. Work-wear, lingerie, beach cover ups, and lounge wear. These four wardrobe staples were somehow incorporated altogether in his collection. He never ceases to amaze me. The makeup beautifully depicted this vibe. Soft and earthy tones reflected the beach and lounge wear vibe. While the structured base reminded me of that coworker who naturally looks put together.
Anna Sui- Makeup Lead: Pat McGrath
The whimsical patterns and the high school varsity thematic of the collection, provided a unique opportunity for the makeup itself. The look featured a burgundy smoked out cat eye. According to the dress, this was the sophisticated high school crowd that was enviable in every way. The makeup really expressed that and I can’t wait to try this look out myself.
Coach 1941-Makeup Lead: Pat McGrath
Punk with a grunge shift from head to toe, was the influencer for this collection. I was genuinely and pleasantly surprised with this collection. When I think of Coach, I do think of the 90s-early 2000s, with the signature stamped handbags that everyone held. This collection was something else, and it really made me excited to see Coach branching out into a darker realm. A neutral shadow formulated a subtle cat eye on the lids, while they added a stark black smudged liner under the rim of the eye. Pat effortlessly created and opened the eye in doing so, rather than the typically closed shape that the grunge look normally creates.
DKNY-Makeup Lead: Pat McGrath
Following the release of Pat’s Lust004 lipstick kits, this look was recreated on the runway. The collection was sporty and really gave me Puma x Rihanna FW 16/17 vibes. With a collection like this it is only natural to do the cool girl look with a dramatic lip. She kept the rest of the face very plain and structured. Even though the rest of the look was soft I am keeping this in the edgy category because a statement lip and a blank face is a timeless way to creat some edge.
Rag & Bone- Makeup Lead: Tom Pecheux
With the overall vibe of the collection using work wear inspired pieces this makeup look added an extra piece that changed the direction of the looks. If Tom kept it simple and soft it would have looked very menswear, but instead he used an edge. It gave the feel of a working woman who had a date on a Friday night scheduled with no time to get ready. The sharp liner defining the lash lines was smoked out reminiscent of a long day at work, but still with a purposeful appeal. I enjoyed the decision to keep the lip and base dependent on the the skin tone of the model. This really added that effortless and professional vibe of the entire look.
Carolina Herrera-Makeup Lead: Diane Kendal
The elegant silhouette of the collection accompanied by the ready-to-wear fabrics was a really great juxtaposition. Following suit with this, was the beautiful and drastically bold grungy cat eyes. But they didn’t stop there; they gave you even more drama with bright rosy cheeks and an even brighter red lip. All of the above created a really beautiful elegant look.
Last but not least comes a hybrid of Soft and Edgy:
Edgy meets soft took vibrancy to another level. From Marc’s work with Louis Vuitton to his eponymous label, I am always always always, a fan of his designs. In my opinion anything he touches turns to gold, or black depending on how you want to look at it. From the set design to the amazing platform shoes, his attention to detail is unlike any other. For the hair of this runway they used dread lock extensions that were piled high on top of the models heads. Each hair piece contained a different color tone mixed within. And Nars brilliantly incorporated this into different makeup looks ranging from burgundy, pastel blue, sage green and more. They used false lashes that were only placed in the center of the top and bottom to create a unique twist on the Twiggy look. I really respected this look as it was really true to the Spring/Summer collection. The look from head to toe reminded me of burning man, and always the creation and genius blew me way.
So that concludes my round up of beauty trends seen at NYFW. I can’t wait to recreate some of these looks! Let me know what trends you noticed on the runways!
Until Next Time,